Journey Man

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    • Machu Picchu base camp.

      Posted at 3:37 pm by mkombrink, on October 24, 2017

      Buenos Dias, y’all!

      I thought I would give a quick update this morning since I’ve got some time to kill because the town I’m in now doesn’t have a whole lot to do except hike up to Machu Picchu.

      Woke up in Ollantaytambo and after doing the usual yawn, stretch, get familiar with where the heck I am, I reach to turn on the bedside lamp. Back and forth I toggle the switch and to my disappointment, no light was produced. That’s okay, my phone has a full charge from the same outlet. So, I get up and turn on the overhead light in the room and get the same result. I guess the power is out.  Naturally, that means there’s no hot water.  Rather than subject myself to torture for the third day in a row I decided to skip the shower.

      Walking to the train station I see that the mountains are covered in a light dusting of fog that hesitates to leave its cozy bed and rise.  The peak in the distance shows some evidence of snow.

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      Reaching the square, I try the ATM but apparently there’s no power anywhere in the city.  What’s more, I have no service on my phone.  Instead of coffee or food, I turn left and head to the train that will carry me to Machu Picchu.

      Reaching the station, I find a less than comfortable but completely adequate spot of concrete with a luxurious brick wall to lean against.  I sit like a homeless person against the wall facing the tracks at the train station staring up at the Andes the clouds just won’t let go.

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      I only have three point two soles and you can’t buy anything but a bottle water with that and I already have a bottle water. I’m hungry. Powers out in the entire town. I have one American dollar. 3.2 soles.  So what?  Seriously, some folks would be happy to be so rich. To be in this beautiful place, just days away from walking and climbing one of the wonders of the world. I am rich and these coins in my pocket are really only a distraction at this point.

      On board the train I get coffee and a free cookie with raisins and chocolate chips. Now I have arrived!

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      Checked into Denny’s Place, my hostel where I sit now in an open air room facing the Andes. Listening to the birds chirping and the sound of the housekeepers phone playing music, some American pop mixed with Spanish. The volume raises and lowers at they move about the building. They talk and they laugh and they work.

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      Heading out for a warm up hike to loosen up a bit for tomorrow’s big day.  Should have gotten some hiking in earlier so I am ready. I will see Machu Picchu from the hike.

      Thank you all for your support and encouragement. This blog has become an unexpectedly large and important part of this experience for me.

      Adios por ahora!

      Posted in Machu Piccu | 0 Comments
    • The big day!

      Posted at 10:07 pm by mkombrink, on October 22, 2017

      Today is really going to be more about the photos than anything else. Hiking the mountain that I hiked today at Machu Picchu was very technical in both its acsent and descent and therefore, I didn’t have a whole lot of time to think of anything other than what I was doing.  A link to details about the mountain and trail will be included at the very end for your enjoyment and reference.

      Woke to rain at four am.   Reconsidered everything about how today was going to look and what I was going to pack.  Packed up.  Cut a small opening in the top of my waterproof backpack cover that I had ordered for this trip so that I could slide the strap of my shoulder bag through it and protect it from the rain. Bought a poncho on the road.

      I don’t know if you remember me saying that the lady who sold me the bus ticket recommended I get there around 4:00 or 4:30 AM, because that’s when the line starts to form.  That sweet lady who I thought was offering me a bit of inside  information must have told everyone about the time to line up.  With several hundred people in front of me, I find some shelter from the rain and begin my wait for the 530 buses.  The rain stopped while I was waiting in line, the sun came up, and the fog started to lift. I boarded the bus and left at 5:30 as planned.

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      The bus carrying my fellow would-be adventurers and me arrived at Machu Picchu and I made it through the entrance and to the gate where you begin the hike up that iconic mountain by 620, where I must wait until 700 to enter.  Then, it’s a choice between a two hour hike to the mountain peak and back or do an entire loop which is four hours.  I’ve got a Snickers bar and two bottles of water.  I choose the loop.

      Forty minutes into what is one of the most amazing climbs I have ever done, I reach the peak.  The climb consisted of a series of stairs going almost completely vertical at times with heavy steel cables tied into the rock face to hold on to. The wet and slick surface made caution paramount. I was among the first few people to arrive at the peak after which we were joined by the remaining 200 participants who were lucky enough to gain entry to this hike today.

      Somewhat disappointed, there was so much fog we could not see the ruins.  I hung around and got some photos and helped take some photos. It’s at this moment that I realized how much I miss my boys.  I tried to call them, starting with my youngest, hoping that maybe he would be awake. I got his voicemail and left as good a message as I could.  I was having a difficult time speaking since I was thinking of those guys sitting up on the hill with me.

      After staying up on the peak until about 830, in what was once an outfit reduced to a T-shirt and some shorts, weather came rolling in and I had to put on a pullover and a rain jacket and a hat. Later in the day, after retiring from the hike and hiking back to my hostel, I would end up having to use everything I packed, including my forever pants.

      The hike continued, and turned out to be even more grueling and than the initial ascent.  I made my way around the mountain to the Grand Cavern, in which you will see me seated on a carved out bench of sorts.  I met a French couple who offered me some cake.  I happily accepted  because it was at that point I had just devoured my Snickers bar.

      Once back to Machu Picchu, I finished touring the grounds.  I made my way to the snack shop with an open air dining area overlooking the ruins.  I refueled for my journey down the mountain by foot.

      Turns out, I was looking forward to the hike down and was planning to use the road as it makes a series of smooth switchbacks and takes 2 1/2 hours.  This is the same road I would be sharing with all of the bus traffic. As I was making my way out I saw a trailhead for a trail that instead, went almost straight down the hill and should take only an hour.   Still up for a challenge I choose the vertical descent.

      Now, I’ve always enjoyed bounding down stairs or hills, whether it’s in a race, or just for the fun of it.  Going down these large stone steps one by one without bouncing down them is very difficult, but it seems to be the right thing to do.  That was until I saw an old Peruvian man bouncing down the stairs, one by one, running almost.  As I was resting, I saw two other young boys together dancing down.  Followed by another couple of Peruvians and pretty soon I decided to test the theory that these locals may know best.  Grabbing my bag from off my shoulder, I started jumping down the steps, one to the next, and found that it was so much easier than trying to walk down the steps. And more enjoyable too.

      At the bottom, I crossed a rope bridge over the river and joined the road that I had walked twice already to get back to my hostel.  It was raining for my walk back so I was mostly wet by the time I returned.  The first order of business was a hot shower and then a nap.  Up from my nap, I will post this blog and then the plan is for dinner and maybe to see if I can wash some of my clothes.  The washing of the clothes may be a necessity at this point.  I’m out of clean underpants and I have one pair of socks that are clean. I bent over to untie my shoes when I got back and I was greeted by an extremely unpleasant smell.  I realized that this odor is either emanating from my pants or from the bedspread. I really hope it’s my pants.

      Tomorrow marks a significant part of my journey.  This is the point where I am no longer exploring.  I am no longer goal oriented and looking to reach my final destination.  I have reached my destination and I am satisfied.   I have found a lot more than a mountain and some 600-year-old ruins.

      So tonight I will celebrate and tomorrow I will begin the journey home. Home is still three days away and I’ll make the most of every moment that I have here, but I am homesick, my friends.

      Until I see you again……

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      If you look closely at this last picture and zoom in near the top you’ll see some climbers. That’s where I was.

      A Guide to Hiking Huayna Picchu

       

      Posted in Machu Piccu | 2 Comments
    • Back to Cusco

      Posted at 11:50 pm by mkombrink, on October 21, 2017

      It was a somewhat of an uneventful day today. But I thought that I would check in anyway.

      I woke up and went downstairs for breakfast which was simply bread, butter, and jelly with a small packet of instant coffee. I tried to make a breakfast out of it but decided against it.  I walked to the train station where I enjoyed a delicious brownie that had clearly sat outside in the case overnight but it was nevertheless enjoyable.  Add to that a proper cup of coffee.  I also had the pleasure of pigeons walking around under my table by my feet. I don’t like birds and I don’t like when they get flustered and begin to fly anywhere near me.  I do my best to keep the birds away who were clearly seeking brownie crumbs.  It became a battle between me and the birds and the brownie.  I refused to let a single crumb fall from my lips or from the brownie to the ground because I will not let the birds win.  I am victorious, I think.

      Aboard the train, I read my book and slept for most of the ride to Ollantaytambo.  Upon exiting the train I entered the mob of taxi drivers.  I negotiated a ride for 20 Soles , the equivalent of around six American dollars, to ride back with the guy and three other passengers to Cusco, an hour and forty minute ride.

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      Upon arrival in Cusco I checked into my hostel.  Very, very impressed with this hostel and it’s rooftop deck. Lots of energy and activity in here. I’m clearly the oldest by at least fifteen years.

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      Having explored the city for two days last week, I’m walking the streets now as a slightly salty veteran.  Certainly not mistaken for a local, however.  Having unburdened myself of my backpack, I feel free to roam the city and I feel very light.

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      My hostess recommends a restaurant and I’m off.  Upon entering the restaurant, I immediately determine that it’s a popular place because there’s almost no seating. I ask for seat, indicating with my index finger that I am solo.  The hostess gestured to a table right where I’m standing. It’s a long table with seven chairs around it and six people at the table. It took me a minute, but I gathered that she was saying I should sit at that table with them.  Obviously, in America this would not happen as far as I’m aware. But when in Rome.  Of course the experience would not be complete without the screaming of a young child not too far off.   I ordered the salad which consisted of half of an avocado with boiled potatoes, chicken, and mayonnaise as well as peas and carrots.  It came out sprinkled with shredded white cheese and half of an egg, hard-boiled, on top and one Kalamata olive.   For my main course I ordered noodles with pesto and chicken which I was ultimately informed while I was enjoying my salad that they were out of.  I quickly changed my order to my initial runner-up which was trout with noodles in a garlic sauce. Not long after, the plate was placed next to me on the table with an incredibly large, heaping mound of noodles mixed with all kinds of onions and scallions and peppers and an entire trout, head and tail and everything on top.  It was clearly fried so I went ahead and ate it and it was delicious. I was only able to eat half my salad so I put that in the fridge along with the rest of my noodles.

      Did some shopping at the market and then came back and chilled out in the room. I went into town to the Square to watch the sunset and enjoy frappacino, which I have not done in years.

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      The night wraps with me writing this blog and finishing my book and going to bed. Tomorrow I walk to the airport and hour and a half away and fly back to Lima.

      Oh, and I took a picture of some doors that I found interesting and I’m including some other shots of Cusco as well.

      Boring day, huh?

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      Posted in Machu Piccu | 0 Comments
    • Homeward Bound

      Posted at 3:45 am by mkombrink, on October 21, 2017

      Today the journey back home continues.  Waking up to the smell of something cooking, I hopped into a hot shower and came out ready to pack and get on with the day. Even though breakfast was being prepared just a few feet away, my plan was already to go to Starbucks and enjoy a proper cup of coffee and whatever food I can find there. I packed everything and got ready for the trip home and then headed out the door in search of a dark cherry mocha.

      As always, Starbucks did not disappoint. I returned to my room, checked out, and they allowed me to put my bags in storage so that I could go for a hike. My flight to Lima, Peru did not leave until 4 o’clock in the afternoon so I had some time to kill.

      The nice young lady at the front counter,  when I asked her how to get to the cross that I see on top of the hill, asked me if I was referring to “sexy woman”.  I said I didn’t think so but I was looking at a cross on the top of the hill and I’d like to hike up to that. She said that I could hike to Cristo Blanco and also “sexy woman”.  Putting Cristo Blanco into Google, I headed out the door with a bottle of water.

      The hike to Cristo Blanco  was nearly straight up.  When I say hike, I mean stairs going straight up the hill.  I took in the views along the way and once I reached the top I was at an elevation of nearly 12,000 feet.

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      Turns out “sexy woman” was only a short distance away.  Since it cost nearly $20 American to enter, I walked back down the hill.

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      I stopped for coffee on the way down and enjoyed a nice cup of joe while seated just feet away, a baby was waking and possibly hungry.  As any caring mother would do, this mom just pulled down her blouse revealing the source of nourishment and began administering lunch on the spot. No shame in her game.

      Gulping down the rest of my coffee and retrieving my belongings from storage, I began my walk to the airport.  It’s a pleasant walk in that it’s mostly downhill gradually.  Where it is not pleasant is what you’re actually walking through. Lots of commotion and traffic and vendors. In fact, I walked by a lady selling what appeared to be prunes and a baby.

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      I did see a cool tower with a statue of someone who is, no doubt, important to these folks. Here are some pics.

       

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      So, I bid adios to Cusco and hope to return someday.

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      During the flight I had a thought that has never really crossed my mind before. Flight attendants. Isn’t it weird that it has become customary to be 30,000 feet up and someone is walking around serving us drinks and snacks.  To me, it’s strange enough to believe that we can actually fly in a tube from one place to the next, let alone have someone hand me a glass of orange juice to go with my breakfast bar.   Now we would probably think it strange if we didn’t see a flight attendant serving us. Is it really necessary though?  Why not save some money on the ticket and leave the snack obligations to the passengers?  Sorry flight attendants. Please bring me a blanket?

      I’m in the Lima airport for a six hour layover.  Arriving in Fort Lauderdale at 7 am tomorrow, I only have an eleven hour layover before my flight to Jacksonville and then I drive home.  Can’t wait to cross that bridge!

      Peace!

      Posted in Machu Piccu | 0 Comments
    • It’s a wrap!

      Posted at 1:44 am by mkombrink, on October 20, 2017

      Well, my fellow travelers and readers, the time has come to wrap up a blog that has become a huge part of my life over the last week and a half.  Those of you who have been faithful to the blog already know everything that I did and encountered and honestly, there is not more adventure to share.  In fact, I don’t think I even have a photo to add to this entry.  However, with plenty of time in the airport on the way back, I had a lot of time to reflect.  This was not just a journey of adventure but somewhat of self discovery.

      Starting with my packing, I noticed that I ended up only needing about half of what I brought with me.  You know, I began to think about how some people tend to pack everything they can think of, just in case.  I believe a lot of people do that because they want to make sure they are prepared for any eventuality.  That led me to a realization about myself.  Preparing for any eventuality does not interest me.  Making sure that I am prepared to handle a situation where I don’t have what I need, or think I need, is more important and exciting to me.  Will I be ready in the moment of shortage to make the adjustments necessary to still achieve my goal?  Yes, I will and I am.

      So, I took this trip after much consideration with a small dose of fear present.  Could I afford it financially?  Do I want to miss this much work?  Do I want to do this alone?  Is there something I am trying to find out there?  Do I need to know me better?

      Financially, it was a bit of a stretch as I don’t have much disposable income these days.  I asked myself, am I going to remember the money or the experience.  Historically, I have found that memories are priceless and I never remember the cost.  In fact, a large part of the reason for this blog is so that I can go back to it from time to time to reminisce.

      Missing work?  Most people would probably opt to miss as much work as they are allowed.  However, since I love my work family, I enjoy being at work.  I also love what I do for work, the owners I work with, and even helping the guests make the most of their time on our island.

      As for doing this alone, I think that was the right call.  At the end of the day, I trust in me.  I also like to push my limits to see how I respond.  Travelling with another person means I need to be responsible for them, to some point, but I also need to be responsible enough so that I don’t put them in a position of having to rescue me.  I make the decisions, the mistakes, and the adaptations.  I take full responsibility for my actions and decisions.  Travelling alone also forces you into a position of reflection.  Rather than walking eight miles each way along the railroad tracks, talking and laughing, with another individual, I am alone with my thoughts and can cultivate opinions and uncover solutions to existing life situations.  I ask myself the tough questions and answer honestly.  Why do I do the things I do and how does doing those things affect those around me, for example.

      So, I came out here joking about finding myself or soul searching.  I can’t say that I found anything I was looking for, but since I wasn’t really looking for anything I guess I can’t be disappointed or unfulfilled.  Instead, I found myself thinking about why people don’t take more chances or more adventures.  I think if you are sincerely content with your station in life and everything is working the way you want it to, and that is all you want, then keep it up and I wish the best for you.  However, if you are restless and dissatisfied with your station, then step up and do something about it.  Make a change.  Either to your current situation or, if that isn’t working, make a more radical change.  You know, if you are unhappy then you are likely negative and you are not just affecting your days on this planet, but also the lives of those around you.  Sometimes the toughest decisions are those that are the most necessary.  What can you do today to make your life meaningful?  Purposeful?  Enjoyable?  Responsible?  You may not know the answer but if you step out or step up, and try something, successful or not, maybe it leads you to another path and another where you start to gain traction, crest the hill, victorious, and all is clear for miles.  You can see all of your options in front of you.  Endless possibilities.  I crested a lot of hills over the course of this trip and I found clarity and saw my options and possibilities.  I encourage you to do the same.

      I enjoyed the journey, and I am grateful for the opportunity and now that I am home, grateful that I survived.  I learned a lot and would do it again in a heartbeat!

      Only one question remains.  Where to next?

      Thank you.

      Mark

       

      Posted in Machu Piccu | 0 Comments
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    • About

      My name is Mark Kombrink and I dream of travel constantly, alone or with a companion.  I am not fortunate enough to travel exclusively, so I work and I make two lengthy trips a year somewhere in the world and fit a few local adventures in the rest of the year.  Looking to the day when my full time job is “wanderer”.

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